I found this deburring tool (Burraway by Cogsdill) and ended up buying a 1/8″ (3.2mm) and a 5/32″ (4mm) from eBay for about $35 each. I wish I found this earlier. Basically it deburs the front and back of a hole with one simple operation with only access to one side of the hole. As you insert the tool into the hole the cutter deburs the front of the hole then as you push the cutter collapses and slips through the hole. As you pull back the cutter now deburs the other side of the hole and then it collapses and the tool comes out of the hole. This is great for deburring the channel type parts where you can’t get the normal deburring tool in the back or if you have to ream a hole or two in an area that you can’t get to the back and you’ve already riveted things together. The tools works really well, though if its a big burr you need to go a bit slow to make sure it removes all the burr. Eventually the cutter will wear out and will need to be replaced, but it should be good for a few thousand holes.
One of the other builders asked if I could post what I was using for labeling the wiring on the plane. I’m using a Rhino 6000 labler with heat shink tubing labels. I believe the labeler was around $300. I think there is also a less expensive model that can also use the heat shink cartridges. Also I think there is a model above that can connect to the computer via USB and act as a printer so you can print wire labels from a spreadsheet, etc. So far the labeler and heat shrink labels have worked ok great. I really don’t have anything bad to say about either one.
I saw this in the Kitplanes September 2016 issue. These are lithium batteries and weigh quite a bit less then other dry-cell batteries like the Odyssey that are typically used in aircraft. For example the Odessy PC1200 weighs around 39lbs while the EarthX ETX1200 only weighs about 8lbs, both have around 600CCA. They’re a bit pricey though, around $700 for the ETX1200 (above). Aircraft Spruce sells them and also found them at Battery Mart. I will need to do some more research on them and what size battery I would need for the Sling. It might be a good option if weight is an issue, though since the tech is still a bit new I’m sure there are problems.
Here’s a comparison (at the bottom of the page) between Odyssey and EarthX (it was done by EarthX) so it’s a bit biased.
Having been an audio engineer I was familiar with the idea of creating wire run list for all the cable runs in a studio (and there are many). So I thought I’d do something similar for the Sling build. I’m posting this just in case someone might find this useful. I’m also hoping it will help me estimate the quanity of all the different wiring that I need. I’m just posting a screen shot of what I did. If you’re interested let me know and I can send you a copy of the file. Having this in a spread sheet is pretty cool actually because if you sort the columns you can identify all the wires going to a device. There is an issue where if you’re not consistent with saying something is always the source then you need to sort by “Location A” and also by “Location B” to find all the connections to/from a device. I also was able to add some calculations to add all the different types of cabling to give me a total of all that type of wire I need, also there are calculations that count usage (if an “X” is placed under the “Installed”column for a run). By using the calculations I can roughly see what wiring I still need (in red) or if I have extra. As more wiring is purchased I can just increment the purchased column in the Inventory table.
Just wanted to do a quick post about the crimper I purchased, the IDEAL Crimpmaster. The crimper has interchangeable dies so you can crimp a bunch of different cables and connectors and only have to purchase the correct die. You can really spend a lot of money on a crimper so I was a little hesitant about this one. When I bought it (on Amazon) the crimper came with an RG6/RG59 F connector die. It was actually cheaper then buying it other dies even though the dies all cost about the same. I also purchased the PIDG and RG59/400 dies. It ratchets so you get a very good crimp. Pretty pleased with this purchase so far.
Crimp master crimper
I bought this clip on handle at Lowes for around $6 and I love it. It has made priming so much easier. My finger doesn’t hurt and it’s not primer green any more 🙂
Best $6 ever spent
So here’s my prepping process for getting parts ready to prime. This is done after removing the protective plastic, test fitting the parts and reaming any holes where rivets fit too tight.
- debur holes with countersink bit and electric drill (if needed). Most look pretty good, though I have found the need to debur at least one side of the hole. Also if I have to ream the hole out then it needs to be deburred.
- debur edges using a cheap burring tool from Home Depot which seems to do a good job and is quick.
- Clean parts with a (1:3 mixture) 1 part Simple Green Extreme Aircraft Cleaner and 3 parts water. I rub it on with a lint free cloth and then wipe it off with another lint free wipe.
- Carefully put it on a bucket to be primed. I’m going to use a Zinc Phosphate prime I purchased from Aircraft Spruce. It’s supposedly self etching so it should stick pretty well and it says it’s “excellent” for corrosion resistance. I’ll probably be doing the quick build kit so I’m not going to go crazy with a more involved priming routine.
Cleaner I’m using
Using the 1:3 mixture, but here are some other recommendations
Mixture in an old margarita mix bottle
Lint free cloth for applying the cleaner
Wipe off cleaner with a lint free wipe
Noce and clean and ready to prime
Primer I will be using
Clean parts in the bucket