Cabin Lights Wiring

Time: 1.75 hrs

Today I ran some 20AWG wire up to the cabin lights. I’ll be wiring that to the potentiometer for the pilot/coplilot lights and also back to the rear overhead lights. I also finished up and secured the wiring through the center console now that all fuselage wiring is in place.

I fished the wiring through the conduit with some thin metal wire. I then had to fish it the rest of the way up to the hole for the dimmer potentiometer.

Wire running down the side of the fuselage through some grommets. I left a little extra wire as a service loop just in case.

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Grommet Edging for Rear Fuselage Ribs

Time: 1.5 hrs

Things done today:

  • Drilled out a few rivers on the tail cone/rear fuselage skin area to 4mm
  • Installed edge grommet on ribs where wiring passes through

This was suggested by Jean. He said that sometimes even if the wiring is wire tied it will rub on the edges of the ribs. I went through and installed a small piece of edge grommet on all these areas… maybe 10 or so. I wish I would have thought of this before the bottom skins were on… boy what a pain to do this now.

Pitch Servo Wiring

Time: 2hrs

Things done today:

  • Put pins on pitch servo wires
  • Started to disassemble the control sticks to fix tightness in aileron movement
  • Finished up front seat back

One of the parts I picked up from TAF Torrance was the side channel for the front seat. I had received one a few months ago, but TAF had updated the channel to a thicker aluminum and elimated the angle doubler piece. Since I had already built one seat back and had riveted the right side together of the other I wanted them to match. TAF was able to send the older style part so now the seat side all match. Now I just need to paint it grey along with the rear seat back and some brackets.

I also started to disassemble the control sticks in attempt to do a comprehensive fix. I’m going to try to go to Torrance TAF tomorrow to look at the control stick assembly from one of the kits there. Mine is a bit different then the other builders so I’m not sure if mine is supposed to have the stop collars. Also mine was assembled incorrectly with the control horn not all the way to the end of the tube. So now I’m  questioning everything about these parts. If the control sticks in the kit are significantly different then what I have Then may just see if in can take them and go through the process of removing mine and swapping them out. If not then I may be able to fix mine in some capacity. It sucks to have this issue come up again so far into the build, at least I didn’t rivet the sides on to the fuselage yet, so swapping them out isn’t too difficult.


This is the source of all my control stick issues. If you find the 2 rivets on the right side of the photo. Those rivets attach the control horns to the control tube. Notice there’s about 1/4″ of tubing past the end of the bracket. That should really be flush to the end of the tube. The 1/4″ is causing all kinds of problems.

I also pinned the wiring for the pitch AP servo. I need to look at the pin assignment in the G3X install manua so I can put the pins into the DB15 connector.

All pinned and labeled. Just need to look at the pin outs for the DB15 connector to see where the pins go.

More Wiring 

Time: 1.5 hrs

Just finished up the wiring and installed more wire tie mounts. I also installed the short run of RG400 for the transponder antenna and put a BNC connector on the antenna side. 
Here’s a few photos for the work done today and yesterday. 

Wiring and Rudder Cable Done

Time: 1hr

Things done today:

  • Finished running com1/2 cabling
  • Finished installing rudder cable and torqued bolts 
  • Drilled holes for cable ties for magnetometer. 
  • Installed rudder springs

I’ll take some photos and update the post later. I was in a rush to get in for dinner   Pretty much  all the cabling from the rear fuselage is done. I need to run the static port lines now. The parts came in a few days ago so with everything else done I think that will be next. 

The rudder cable is installed. I torqued the bolts on the pedal side and also installed the springs (didn’t tight the screws or bolts though). I need to rig up something to mimic the rudder being attached so I can check out how it all works. 

Wiring

Time: 2.75hrs

Things done today:

  • Finished running VOR, elevator trim, and tail strobe cables in rear fuselage
  • Installed most of com1/2 cables in rear fuselage

The route I took for my com2. Not sure if I’m totally happy with this. I may add in a few more supports. 

Put in some spiral wrap to help reduce deforming the RG400 cable when using the cable ties. 

Strobe and elevator trim wiring running into the center fuselage. I decided to come out on the aft side of the rib and run into to the center fuselage under the luggage area. I’m thinking that it keeps the wiring more out in the open for inspections and better access rather then running it behind the riveted rear interior side skin. 

Can’t really see much here. The strobe and elevator trim wire runs inside the higher longeron. The VOR runs through the lower one. 


And here’s where the cabling exits the tail cone. I split the strobe and trim bundle into two right before it exited out the grommet. I can then put them into seperate connectors for easy disconnect from the vertical and horizontal stabilizers. 

Misc Rear Fuselage Work

Time: 2.5 hrs

Things done today:

  • Installed M5 rivnuts on bracket for rudder spring bolts and drilled out missing 3.2mm rivet holes in Ribs 006 L&R
  • Ran cabling for magnetometer
  • Ran cabling for com 1 & 2 antennas

M5 rivnuts and 3.2mm rivets installed. The tensioning springs for the rudder will attach to the bolts here. I noticed that the adjusting screws (you can see the threads of them sticking out from the #2 rib in the middle of the photo) that help tighten the sheathing part of the rudder cables hit the elevator control horn if you leave them unscrewed too far. It seems better having them screwed in more toward the rib as seen in the photo.

Ran 22AWG-2 and 22AWG-3 to where the magnetometer will be mounted. I will probably drill a few small holes in the longeron so I can put some cable ties in to hold the cable. I also ran the com 1 & 2 RG400 cables. I’ll take a photo later once I get them permanently installed.