Cabin Lights Wiring

Time: 1.75 hrs

Today I ran some 20AWG wire up to the cabin lights. I’ll be wiring that to the potentiometer for the pilot/coplilot lights and also back to the rear overhead lights. I also finished up and secured the wiring through the center console now that all fuselage wiring is in place.

I fished the wiring through the conduit with some thin metal wire. I then had to fish it the rest of the way up to the hole for the dimmer potentiometer.

Wire running down the side of the fuselage through some grommets. I left a little extra wire as a service loop just in case.

Grommet Edging for Rear Fuselage Ribs

Time: 1.5 hrs

Things done today:

  • Drilled out a few rivers on the tail cone/rear fuselage skin area to 4mm
  • Installed edge grommet on ribs where wiring passes through

This was suggested by Jean. He said that sometimes even if the wiring is wire tied it will rub on the edges of the ribs. I went through and installed a small piece of edge grommet on all these areas… maybe 10 or so. I wish I would have thought of this before the bottom skins were on… boy what a pain to do this now.

Pitch Servo Wiring

Time: 2hrs

Things done today:

  • Put pins on pitch servo wires
  • Started to disassemble the control sticks to fix tightness in aileron movement
  • Finished up front seat back

One of the parts I picked up from TAF Torrance was the side channel for the front seat. I had received one a few months ago, but TAF had updated the channel to a thicker aluminum and elimated the angle doubler piece. Since I had already built one seat back and had riveted the right side together of the other I wanted them to match. TAF was able to send the older style part so now the seat side all match. Now I just need to paint it grey along with the rear seat back and some brackets.

I also started to disassemble the control sticks in attempt to do a comprehensive fix. I’m going to try to go to Torrance TAF tomorrow to look at the control stick assembly from one of the kits there. Mine is a bit different then the other builders so I’m not sure if mine is supposed to have the stop collars. Also mine was assembled incorrectly with the control horn not all the way to the end of the tube. So now I’m  questioning everything about these parts. If the control sticks in the kit are significantly different then what I have Then may just see if in can take them and go through the process of removing mine and swapping them out. If not then I may be able to fix mine in some capacity. It sucks to have this issue come up again so far into the build, at least I didn’t rivet the sides on to the fuselage yet, so swapping them out isn’t too difficult.


This is the source of all my control stick issues. If you find the 2 rivets on the right side of the photo. Those rivets attach the control horns to the control tube. Notice there’s about 1/4″ of tubing past the end of the bracket. That should really be flush to the end of the tube. The 1/4″ is causing all kinds of problems.

I also pinned the wiring for the pitch AP servo. I need to look at the pin assignment in the G3X install manua so I can put the pins into the DB15 connector.

All pinned and labeled. Just need to look at the pin outs for the DB15 connector to see where the pins go.

More Wiring 

Time: 1.5 hrs

Just finished up the wiring and installed more wire tie mounts. I also installed the short run of RG400 for the transponder antenna and put a BNC connector on the antenna side. 
Here’s a few photos for the work done today and yesterday. 

Wiring and Rudder Cable Done

Time: 1hr

Things done today:

  • Finished running com1/2 cabling
  • Finished installing rudder cable and torqued bolts 
  • Drilled holes for cable ties for magnetometer. 
  • Installed rudder springs

I’ll take some photos and update the post later. I was in a rush to get in for dinner   Pretty much  all the cabling from the rear fuselage is done. I need to run the static port lines now. The parts came in a few days ago so with everything else done I think that will be next. 

The rudder cable is installed. I torqued the bolts on the pedal side and also installed the springs (didn’t tight the screws or bolts though). I need to rig up something to mimic the rudder being attached so I can check out how it all works. 

Wiring

Time: 2.75hrs

Things done today:

  • Finished running VOR, elevator trim, and tail strobe cables in rear fuselage
  • Installed most of com1/2 cables in rear fuselage

The route I took for my com2. Not sure if I’m totally happy with this. I may add in a few more supports. 

Put in some spiral wrap to help reduce deforming the RG400 cable when using the cable ties. 

Strobe and elevator trim wiring running into the center fuselage. I decided to come out on the aft side of the rib and run into to the center fuselage under the luggage area. I’m thinking that it keeps the wiring more out in the open for inspections and better access rather then running it behind the riveted rear interior side skin. 

Can’t really see much here. The strobe and elevator trim wire runs inside the higher longeron. The VOR runs through the lower one. 


And here’s where the cabling exits the tail cone. I split the strobe and trim bundle into two right before it exited out the grommet. I can then put them into seperate connectors for easy disconnect from the vertical and horizontal stabilizers. 

Misc Rear Fuselage Work

Time: 2.5 hrs

Things done today:

  • Installed M5 rivnuts on bracket for rudder spring bolts and drilled out missing 3.2mm rivet holes in Ribs 006 L&R
  • Ran cabling for magnetometer
  • Ran cabling for com 1 & 2 antennas

M5 rivnuts and 3.2mm rivets installed. The tensioning springs for the rudder will attach to the bolts here. I noticed that the adjusting screws (you can see the threads of them sticking out from the #2 rib in the middle of the photo) that help tighten the sheathing part of the rudder cables hit the elevator control horn if you leave them unscrewed too far. It seems better having them screwed in more toward the rib as seen in the photo.

Ran 22AWG-2 and 22AWG-3 to where the magnetometer will be mounted. I will probably drill a few small holes in the longeron so I can put some cable ties in to hold the cable. I also ran the com 1 & 2 RG400 cables. I’ll take a photo later once I get them permanently installed.

VOR, Elevator Trim, and Strobe Wiring

Time: 2.25 hrs

Today I continued work on running the wiring for the VOR, elevator trim tab, and the tail strobe light. The VOR was run separate from the other wires. The Elevator trim and strobe were bundled using cable wrap. The running of these wires is a little more involved because the wiring for the trim motor goes to the elevator AP server before going to the instrument panel (to connect to the VPX vertical power unit). I ordered a “T” heat shink boot to put on this location where the trim motor wiring “T”s off of the main run. I’ll need to finish this up when I get some smaller tie wraps and the cable wrap for the VOR cable. 

VOR, trim and strobe cables out of the tail cone through the existing holes. I have a 22awg-2 (trim motor), 22awg-3 (trim position), 18awg-3 (strobe), 18awg black for strobe ground, and finally an RG400 cable for the VOR antenna. 

These need to be tied up once I get some smaller cable ties. I drilled holes in the lower longeron, the one with the VOR cable so that I can secure it with cable ties. 

This is the rear to center fuselage join. I had considered routingvthe cables trough the rib via the longeron, but then a hole is required in the longeron to get the cable down to run through the spar. I was also thinking that keeping the cable out where it’s not behind a riveted skin so that it can be inspected or replaced. Obviously the cable will be secured better once I get the smaller tie wraps. The VOR I ran trough the rib because it was low enough not need more holes and because it made a better transition the coming out of the longeron on the other side of the rib and running through the lightning hole. 


Will get a better photo when I put the “T” boot on the cable. 

Misc Fuselage Work

Time: 1.25 hrs

Things done today:

  • Fixed rivet holes for steps (photo)
  • Modified the center bracket more for rudder cables
  • Started running VOR cable through rear and center fuselage
  • Took inventory for cable for tail strobe and elevator trim tab

I had looked at the Sling 2 manual for the placement of the steps because the Sling 4 manual doesn’t show it. However after looking at some of the factory photos on Craig’s site it looks like I had it a bit too far back. I had to drill out the 4 side and 5 bottom rivets. Below are a side and bottom view of the “correct” location of the holes to leave for the steps. These will need to be reamed to 4mm since that’s what’s used on the the steps.. actually the rivets used at 4mm stainless steel (not aluminum) and are 12mm long which is longer then the typical rivets used. 

Bottom view of the 5 holes needed for the step mounting. Basically it’s one rivet back from the join of the rear and center fuselage. 


And here’s the side view of the 4 holes. 

Headset Wiring

 

Time: 0.5 hrs

Just ran some wiring for the headsets. I’ll be using Lemo connectors which supply power to the ANR headsets as well as mic and stereo audio. You can also use regular aviation headsets if you have an adapter. I contemplated this for a while and after reading several posts about installing Lemo connectors as well as standard aviation jacks and how people never used their standard jacks anymore, I thought it would be simplest and sufficient to only install Lemo style plugs.

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The Garmin GMA245 has separate mic inputs for 4 people and 3 stereo outputs (pilot, co-pilot, and passengers). I ran (4) 22AWG-2 (M27500-22TG2T14) and (3) 22AWG-3 (M27500-22TG3T14), plus a 20AWG wire for power. I’m thinking this will all terminate on the Lemo side two 16pin Molex 150MX connector. I’ll probably just buy the remade Bose Lemo cables so I’ll just have to pin those and put them into the correct position in the connector. Having it come out on a multi-pin connector will also make removing a bad plug fairly easy by defining it from the connector and removing it.

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This is the pre-made Bose Lemo plug that I’ll be using. They’re a little pricey at around $60 each, but even if you build it your self it’s still fairly expensive since the Lemo connectors themselves are around $30 each.

 

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The bottom of the glove box already has (4) 7/16″ holes for the pilot and co-pilot mic and headset. Since each Lemo has both mic and stereo headset audio I’ll just wire the passenger Lemos to here as well. Everything in one convent place and less wire runs. The only issue I need to look at is if the flap actuator will hit the connectors. The connectors are about 1.5″ long and I’m not sure how much clearance there is. Phone jacks would be a bit more shallow so probably not an issue if using those. If all else fails I can make a box that sits into the glove box that gives more space for mounting the jacks.