Nose Wheel Spat Finished

Time 1.25 hrs

Things done today:

  • Filled in unused holes in nose wheel spat (factory pilot hole for mounting)
  • Cut top of nose wheel spat flush
  • Drilled holes for tow bar
  • Connected and torque rudder pedal to nose wheel push rods

The forward part of the nose wheel spat is a little longer then the rear so I cut it flush with the rear and sanded it to finish the edge. The front part of my nose wheel spat sits about 15mm from the strut. The manual says 5mm, but it looks like the spat sits at a good angle and clearance to the front tire is good as well. Also the forward holes that screw into the mount were very close to the factory ones so I think it’s in a good spot. Also I checked the new manual and it doesn’t say anything about putting rivnuts into the nose wheel strut, but he old manual does so it’s possible that it’s not needed. I’ll have to check with the factory though.

Drilled the hole for the tow bar. That was kind of a paint in the butt. I measured the spacing from the rivnut to the center of the hole and then eyeballed the angle. Then I drilled a 1/16″ pilot hole and put a piece of wire in it and felt around the back to see where the wire came through the hole. I had to move the pilot hole back about 1/16″ or so. Then I drill a bit larger hole and then filed it out until I could see the edges of the tow bar hole. I then finished it using a step reamer to 3/8″. I’m going to consider the wheel spats done. The only thing left to do on them is to install the blond grommets for the air valve. I don’t have them so I need to find them online. Once I get them I’ll know exactly the size hole to drill.

This went quick. I just had to connect and torque up the AN5 bolts that connect the rudder pedals to the nose wheel. It’s steerable in the Sling. I also put some lithium grease on the rose joints (saw that at TAF).

Wheel Spats and Luggage Door

Time: 3.5hrs

Spent some time fitting the main and nose wheel spats on. I started with the main wheel spats. At first I was thinking that this was not going to work. They seemed so far off and parts were rubbing on the tires. I trimmed about 1/8″ or less from the top of the outer wheel cover. Things seemed to fit a bit better. I marked the top of the rear part of the cover (the part that bolts onto the gear) so that it lined up with the top of the front and cut that. The fit was even better. A little more light cutting and then a final sanding ended up with a pretty good fit.

A few photos of the fitment of the left spat. I’m pretty happy with it. Still need to cut the holes for air filling. 

I ended up glueing the washer to the inside of the spat since it was nearly impossible to get it to go on. 

One more look from the front

On to the nose wheel. Glad I didn’t use the factory provided holes as they were a little off. I ended up sharpening a M5 screw and screwed it into the hole then lined up the cover and hitting it with a mallet. This leaves a mark on the inside of the spat so you know where to drill the hole. 

Almost done. I still need to cut the top even and I believe the manual says to install two rivnuts at the top into the nose wheel strut. 

All spats on. Looking good 🙂

I also added some think neoprene foam to the luggage door. I had previously installed some neoprene rubber and it wasn’t really thick enough. Also it was kind of sticky so the luggage door would stick when you tried to open it. I just added the foam over the rubber and now it seems to seal up fairly well. 

The rest of the door will get covered with carpeting.