Wheel Spats and Luggage Door

Time: 3.5hrs

Spent some time fitting the main and nose wheel spats on. I started with the main wheel spats. At first I was thinking that this was not going to work. They seemed so far off and parts were rubbing on the tires. I trimmed about 1/8″ or less from the top of the outer wheel cover. Things seemed to fit a bit better. I marked the top of the rear part of the cover (the part that bolts onto the gear) so that it lined up with the top of the front and cut that. The fit was even better. A little more light cutting and then a final sanding ended up with a pretty good fit.

A few photos of the fitment of the left spat. I’m pretty happy with it. Still need to cut the holes for air filling. 

I ended up glueing the washer to the inside of the spat since it was nearly impossible to get it to go on. 

One more look from the front

On to the nose wheel. Glad I didn’t use the factory provided holes as they were a little off. I ended up sharpening a M5 screw and screwed it into the hole then lined up the cover and hitting it with a mallet. This leaves a mark on the inside of the spat so you know where to drill the hole. 

Almost done. I still need to cut the top even and I believe the manual says to install two rivnuts at the top into the nose wheel strut. 

All spats on. Looking good 🙂

I also added some think neoprene foam to the luggage door. I had previously installed some neoprene rubber and it wasn’t really thick enough. Also it was kind of sticky so the luggage door would stick when you tried to open it. I just added the foam over the rubber and now it seems to seal up fairly well. 

The rest of the door will get covered with carpeting. 

More Main Wheel Spats

Time: 2.25

Things done today:

  • Finished up filling and priming the rear part of the main wheel spats
  • Primed and filled blemished in the front part of the main wheel spats

I finished dup the priming and fill on the rear portion of the spats that mount to the brackets. The main front parts were pretty good, but I wanted to fill few blemishes. I also noticed that I had a large dent in one of the wheel spats which I didn’t notice prior to doing all the work on it so I was a bit upset to see it know that not only will I have to wait for a new wheel spat but I’d also have to drill and mount all the rivet nuts and fit it again. So I though maybe if I heated up the material and used a cloth to push on it I could get the bump out. I used my heat gun at 400 degrees and carefully heated the inside. I was just about to use the rag to work out the bump and to my amazement I saw the bump disappearing before my eyes. I really couldn’t believe that heating it would have worked so well. In any case bump is completely gone.


Filling some low spots on the main part of the main wheel spats. I just used some epoxy resin then I sand with 320 grit paper.

Rear part of the main spats all filled and primed

Test fitting the main (front) parts of the main wheel spats. The bottom portion fits well, but the top is going to need some work.

Bottom fits well.

Top needs a bit of work. I think when the top edge  is cut back then it will pull in a bit. I’ll wait until the gear is mounted and things are right side up to do that work though.

Main Wheel Spats

Time: 2.25hrs

Worked on fitting together the spats for the mains. I followed the same procedure as was done on the nose wheel… clamp and tape into place, drill pilot hole, drill 4mm hole then use the hand reamer to ream the inside hole to fit an M4 rivnut. These didn’t seem to come out as well as the nose wheel spat. I couldn’t get the join to sit flush and having to put in the rivnuts made the seam even more pronounced. I’ll have to look at the ones at TAF to see if the job I did is acceptable. I think they came out pretty good so I’m probably just being a bit too picky. 

Finished. The tops will need to be cut down, but I’ll need to fit them into the main gear to see how much to cut. 

A little closer photo.