Wing Fairing Countersinking

Time: 1.25 hrs

Things done today:

  • Worked on adjustment of some of the control push rods to finalize adjustment prior to putting on the side skins
  • Riveted the luggage door latch catch I made
  • Figured out holes to countersink along wing fairing ,fuselage attachment point


I wanted to tighten up what I could for the control push rods. Most need to be adjusted once everything is assembled and control surfaces attached. I was able to adjust and loctite only two of the control rod; the one that attaches between the two control sticks for left and right aileron and the shorter elevator rod that attaches between the front and rear elevator torque tubes.

I came up this cheesy way to find the middle of the elevator throw by putting a ruler down next to the short elevator control rod. Zero was the full down position (control horn fully ahead) and 3″ was full up (control horn full aft) so 1.5″ is about center. I then adjusted the small control rod on the pitch AP servo so that the servo arm was straight up and down… seemed to work, though it seems like the control may be just barely hitting the AP servo stop and not the main hard stops (shown below).

Craig also alerted me to the fact that I had moved the attachment point of the roll AP server control rod to the middle hole of the AP servo arm (well that’s how it was in the manual). I talked to the factory and they said that it doesn’t really matter. They have now been putting it on the bottom hole of the arm for both the roll and pitch servos, but putting it in the middle hole on the roll servo is fine, you just end up adjusting the control rod a little longer. I’m thinking that the second hole is a bit better because you get more throw out of the servo which means it won’t be too sensitive.

So with the front elevator control horn at 1.5″ this is where the control horn on the rear elevator torque tube was adjusted. The lower control horn that attaches to the AP servo was pretty much straight vertically and the upper one that attaches to the long elevator control tube was slightly back.

The controls sicks were pretty much straight up.

Now on to the luggage door latch.

I order a little bit longer rivets then the 10mm ones that are typical with the kit. These are Cherry BSPS-44, they have a grip range up to about 1/4″ which was pretty much perfect here. The heads are a little different but I don’t think too noticeable especially after they’re filled. They’re the 6 middle rivets along the top of the luggage door opening

The back of the latch catch and part of a scare crow it seems 🙂


I did a little research and figuring out today how I wanted to do the area where the wing fairing will attach to the fuselage. I had noticed in some photos that Peter took and that Craig had posted that the factory had left the rivets that are alone the wing fair out. That gave me the idea that maybe countersinking these holes would allow for a tighter fit of the fairing against the fuselage. I also found some counter sunk rivnuts that I need to look into. The thought is to remove any high point to allow the fairing to sit nice and flat against the fuselage. Below is a photo of what I came up with after a trip down to Torrance TAF to count rivets and examine the fairing. If you’re interested in the photos I took then please let me know and I can send them to you . I may post them here, but I don’t want to use up my quota (what can I say I’m cheap).

Note: the only thing I ended up changing was the holes right near the wing root. I ended up countersinking/dimpling the pair of side-by-side hole right below the red tape. So all countersunk holes aren’t seen and lie just below the contact point of the fairing… I hope.

Luggage door latch

Time: 2.5 hrs

  • Refit cowl strips
  • Riveted com2 antenna bracket and made sound proof patch
  • Installed pins in DB15 connectors for pitch and roll server. Need to install shield ground to connector case
  • Cleaned up and deburred luggage door hinge and spacer parts
  • Made bracket for luggage door latch (Got ideal from Peter)
  • Loosely bent latch to fit in door. I’ll adjust better after installed the door seal
  • Fit rest of luggage door parts
  • Riveted brackets for rear seat supports
  • Placed parachute box in luggage area to be test fitted later

A bit difficult to see, but the inside edge of the cowling strips are now painted grey and the parts where it goes under the fuselage skin has been primed. The outside edge will eventually be painted the color of the plaint so I won’t worry about that.


Com2 bracket riveted in place. I offset the mounting holes so that the antenna cable won’t interfere with the push rod for the elevator. I also made a small patch of 1/4″ sound proofing that will cove this once the holes are drilled through the skin. I’ll drill the holes much later just in case I find some issue with putting the antenna here.

Put the pins into the connector and assembled. This is the final arrangement of the roll server. Not the metal bar that screws down on the cable. It’s important not to install it with the sharp edges point down towards the cable. If done that way it will eventually cut through the cable because it’s a bit sharp.

The pitch servo is a little more complicated. Since this is the end of my CAN bus I needed to install a jumper between pins 3 and 4. You also have to install an ID strap jumper between pins 5 and 8 to identify this as the pitch servo. No jumpers are needed on the roll servo. I’ll need to get the correct sized lug mount terminal for the shield ground and screw that the the case. I didn’t bring the shields up to the case on the roll servo. I simply just jumped it so it carried through. The Garmin manual says you can jumper it or bring them up to the case for mid-bus connections. But you need to bring them up to the case if it’s at the end of the CAN bus chain. I may bring them to the case for the other devices.

My new LGN-303 part. So happy how this came out.

Saw that Peter made a nice strike plate for the luggage door latch so I decided to do the same. The latch is bent a bit, but I want to install the door seal before I make the final bends.

Quickly placed the parachute box in the luggage area. I’ll test fit it later just to match sure all looks good before I put the top skins on.