After getting the rear windows installed I decided to work on the canopy door windows. The windows are fairly large so I had to clear some room to work on them. The process was the same as for the rear windows. There is an additional bit of trickiness where the door hinge mounts protrude from the door. I was able to get the right door nearly done for install.
Right side door window almost done, just need to mask the inside and sand the contact area with 80 grit paper.
That’s one of the tricky spots. I had to use the Dremel for these spots around the hinge. I just noticed that there’s some carbon fiber used in the door.
This is the other one. I may fix this one up a little.
Time: 1:5 hrs
Well I didn’t think I was going to get this done over the weekend, but I ended up having time today to install the rear windows in the canopy. I was really pretty nervous about doing this, but it seemed to go very well and without too many issues. I think it came out ok. It’s a bit hard to tell with all tape and clamps so I won’t really know how until all that it removed. I was surprised at how well the Sika held the window in even without any tape so I’m hoping that when I remove the clamps and tape tomorrow the edges don’t pop up. I was able to find some 12″ C clamps at Harbor Freight so I used them to secure the top and bottom while it dries. I just lightly clamped them on to get a good seal on the top and bottom portions of the window which wanted to stick out slightly.
After wiping on the activator and waiting about 15 minutes I primed the window with the 209D primer. I did two coats one after another. I wanted the covering to be good so that you can’t see through it when looking from the other side of the window (the outside facing side). This has to dry for about 15 minutes and no more then 24 hours.
Next I primed the window frame with the 206 G+P primer and let that dry for 15 minutes (and no more the 24 hours). Ok so now for the Sika bead and window install. Heart racing…. hands shanking… 😄
And it’s done. I will run a filler bead in the expansion gap once all the tape and clamps are off. The Sika manual recommends to do it this way and it seems like a reasonable way to do it.