I found this deburring tool (Burraway by Cogsdill) and ended up buying a 1/8″ (3.2mm) and a 5/32″ (4mm) from eBay for about $35 each. I wish I found this earlier. Basically it deburs the front and back of a hole with one simple operation with only access to one side of the hole. As you insert the tool into the hole the cutter deburs the front of the hole then as you push the cutter collapses and slips through the hole. As you pull back the cutter now deburs the other side of the hole and then it collapses and the tool comes out of the hole. This is great for deburring the channel type parts where you can’t get the normal deburring tool in the back or if you have to ream a hole or two in an area that you can’t get to the back and you’ve already riveted things together. The tools works really well, though if its a big burr you need to go a bit slow to make sure it removes all the burr. Eventually the cutter will wear out and will need to be replaced, but it should be good for a few thousand holes.
Time: 2.5 hrs
- Refit cowl strips
- Riveted com2 antenna bracket and made sound proof patch
- Installed pins in DB15 connectors for pitch and roll server. Need to install shield ground to connector case
- Cleaned up and deburred luggage door hinge and spacer parts
- Made bracket for luggage door latch (Got ideal from Peter)
- Loosely bent latch to fit in door. I’ll adjust better after installed the door seal
- Fit rest of luggage door parts
- Riveted brackets for rear seat supports
- Placed parachute box in luggage area to be test fitted later
A bit difficult to see, but the inside edge of the cowling strips are now painted grey and the parts where it goes under the fuselage skin has been primed. The outside edge will eventually be painted the color of the plaint so I won’t worry about that.
Com2 bracket riveted in place. I offset the mounting holes so that the antenna cable won’t interfere with the push rod for the elevator. I also made a small patch of 1/4″ sound proofing that will cove this once the holes are drilled through the skin. I’ll drill the holes much later just in case I find some issue with putting the antenna here.
Put the pins into the connector and assembled. This is the final arrangement of the roll server. Not the metal bar that screws down on the cable. It’s important not to install it with the sharp edges point down towards the cable. If done that way it will eventually cut through the cable because it’s a bit sharp.
The pitch servo is a little more complicated. Since this is the end of my CAN bus I needed to install a jumper between pins 3 and 4. You also have to install an ID strap jumper between pins 5 and 8 to identify this as the pitch servo. No jumpers are needed on the roll servo. I’ll need to get the correct sized lug mount terminal for the shield ground and screw that the the case. I didn’t bring the shields up to the case on the roll servo. I simply just jumped it so it carried through. The Garmin manual says you can jumper it or bring them up to the case for mid-bus connections. But you need to bring them up to the case if it’s at the end of the CAN bus chain. I may bring them to the case for the other devices.
My new LGN-303 part. So happy how this came out.
Saw that Peter made a nice strike plate for the luggage door latch so I decided to do the same. The latch is bent a bit, but I want to install the door seal before I make the final bends.
Quickly placed the parachute box in the luggage area. I’ll test fit it later just to match sure all looks good before I put the top skins on.