Static Ports, Updated Antenna Mount Spacer, and New Longhorn 303

Time: 4.5 hrs

Got lots done… well almost done today:

  • Test fit and prepped for priming the top left rear fuselage skin
  • Installed static ports
  • Made new Longeron 303 (RF-LGN-303)
  • Made spacer for the updated com1 antenna mount (RF-ANG-020-C-C)

Test fit the left top skin on the rear fuselage. It fit really well, only a few small areas that need to get addressed prior to priming.

Here’s one issue. The top longeron is maybe 1/8″ – 1/4″ too long so the rib (rib 4 I believe) can’t be moved forward to line up with the holes in the skin. I just need to remove a little material from the end and all should be good.

This is by far my biggest issue. This is Longeron 302-C (RF-LGN-302-C-C). The holes line up great until rib 5 then they’re all a little off. It lines up the same with the lower skin so it’s not the skins, in fact the holes one the top and bottom skins line up with each other so at least that works. I spoke to the factory and they said just drill out the longeron to match the holes in the skins… Hmmm not sure about that.

All these holes don’t line up. The right side doesn’t have this issue. I even got another longeron from Torrance TAF and same issue.

Yeah… well now all the holes are elongated. I’m thinking the best thing to do is ream these to 4mm rather then 3.2mm even though TAF says this is OK, I don’t know if I’m OK with it.

Moving on to the static ports. I found these on Cleaveland Aircraft Tools ( They’ll need a 1/2″ hole in the skin to fit. I also purchased some green and blue tubing for the Pitot/AOA tube when I get to building the wings.

1/2″ hole drilled using my step reamer and then used some scotch brite to clean and roughen up a bit.

Outside shot of the hole, I just removed some of the protective film so it doesn’t get in the way. The hole is 70mm down from the horizontal rivet row and 70mm left of the vertical rivet row right by rib 5, just like it says in the manual.

Any that’s what it will look like once installed. I like it because it’s just a small bump in the skin and not really noticeable.

Here I cut a block of wood and drilled a hole so the static port fits secure in it. This will be use on the back when clamping in place.

Front view of the clamped in place static port. I just used some Pergo we had lying around and cut a 7/8″ hole. I also put some tape on the hole of the static port so nothing gets in there by accident.

And the back side. Luckily I had these deep “C” clamps that worked nicely. Now we just let it sit for at least 24 hours and hopefully it bonds well.

Using this to bond the static port to the skin. I hope this works. The skin and port have been scotch brited and cleaned with Simple Green and Alcohol.

EDIT: This didn’t end up working, the static ports popped right off the skin as soon as I took the clamps off. I ended up using regular epoxy… well the grey kind that says it’s for use on metal. That seemed to work really well. Also I used a bit less pressure on the clamps. I noticed that there was a bit of a bump around the static ports and I think it’s because I tigthened the clamps too much. 

I’m so happy about how this came out, my new Longeron 303 (RF-LGN-303). The part in the back is the part I made out of a piece of left-over channel from a part I didn’t use. The one that is provided is a bit short and only one hole actually connects to the center fuselage support. The new one is longer so I can put all three rivets that are in the center fuselage support into this part. Also the old longeron had 4mm holes where it attaches to the skin, but the skins have 3.2mm holes. Rather then ream the skins to 4mm I made the holes on the new part 3.2mm so all the rivets will match in that area now. I’ll have to drill a few more holes once I put the side skin back on the center fuselage and will also need to drill the holes for the rear seat supports.

This is the updated com1 antenna mount that mounts to rib2. The manual says that a spacer is needed between the skin and the bracket along the rib rivet line. I made up a spacer using 0.64mm aluminum to match rib 2 material thickness.