Time: 1.5 hrs
I fabricated a bracket for mounting the com 2 antenna to the bottom of the rear fuselage. TAF doesn’t supply one. Originally I was hoping to use the old com 1 (top fuselage) bracket, but it didn’t seem to work anywhere. I still was able to use it as a template for drilling the holes in my bracket though. I decided to mount the com 2 antenna a little further back then the com 1 location just to give a little more ground clearance. I located a few inches in front of Rib 4. I should be able to get the coax cable in under the rudder cables.
The bracket came out pretty good. The tricky part is that the longerons that I’m mounting it between angle in a little as they go towards the back so the bend in the bracket also needed to be angled.
Bracket done and 3.2mm holes drilled into the longerons. I need to widen the larger hole in the middle where the BNC connector comes through, but I need to buy a larger step drill. Also the skin and bracket need to be primed so that’s it for now.
Time: 4.75 hrs
Things done today:
- Drilled holes in RF-CHL-008 parts
- Drilled holes in longerons (RF-LGN-501 L&R) to match holes in RF-CHL-009
- Riveted step reinforcement parts
- Clecoed back skins to rear fuselage frame
Holes where missing in the RF-CHL-008 parts so these got drilled out
Top holes were missing for these brackets that will eventually join the rear to center fuselage
So if you use the holes that are drilled in the longerons (RF-LGN-501 L&R) then the gusset stick out past the longeron which doesn’t seem right. The holes seem correct in the channel piece (RF-CHL-009) below that share these same holes so I’ll drill out the longerons using those holes.
Here’s the new set of holes. Now they line up with the holes in the part underneath (RF-CHL-009)
Much better. The Gusset fits flush with the side of the longeron. You can also see RF-CHL-009 that was used as a template for drilling the new holes in the longeron (RF-LGN-501)
All done. All the step reinforcement parts riveted.
Clecoed the rear most skins onto the rear fuselage frame. Everything lined up pretty well. I had previously needed to enlarge a few holes to 4mm to match the holes in the framing so with that already done the work went pretty quick. I’ll have to add more clecos before riveting and will also loosely cleco the large skins as well.
Time: 3.75 hrs
Things done today:
- Riveted longerons to rear fuselage bottom skin (RF-SKN-007)
- Clecoed ribs to rear bottom skin
- Set longerons in ribs using tie wraps
- Clecoed step reinforcement parts to rear fuselage
- Installed M3 rivnuts for access door
Longerons riveted to the bottom skin. I riveted the rudder bracket box to the longerons first which made it pretty easily to rivet it on. If you wait until after you have to rivet it from the open side of the longerons which is a bit more difficult and definitely needs a modified riveter to get in there. I also installed the M3 rivnuts for the access door. There is another smaller access door more aft on the left side, but I didn’t install that yet. The issue is that holes are too close to widen to put in M3 rivnuts. I saw Peter put the rivnuts in the door itself which would work, but doing that will leave a gap when the door is screwed on. I’ll have to take a a look at the one door a KTOA and see what they did. It almost looks like it should just be riveted on.
Longerons in place and ribs clecoed
Step reinforcement parts clecoed. I noticed a few holes that need to be drilled out. I’ll drill those out and rivet these parts in tomorrow.
Time: 3.0 hrs
Things done yesterday and today:
- Prepped rear fuselage skin, side fuselage reinforcing wing bracket, and rear seat back bottom channel for priming
- Primed above parts
- Gathered parts (already primed) for rear fuselage assembly
Finally got the rear bottom skin (RF-SKN-07) from TAF. Well actually Jean was nice enough to pull the part from a kit they had there since it was looking like another few weeks for the part to come in from SA (I’ve been waiting over 8 months for the part). The catch is the part is the revised part with two rows of 3.2mm rivet holes. My fuselage kit is a little older and only has the single row of 3.2mm (that be upsized to 4mm). The factory says that I need to fill the second row with 3.2mm rivets so I guess I’ll have a row of rivets that don’t do anything.
So it looks like the new skin for the center fuselage must have been extended to accommodate this second row of holes. Well I’m not going to drill out a hundred rivets and redo all the soundproofing in the center fuselage to install the newer center fuselage to match.
Ready for priming
Just drilled out a few holes that were missing in the framing for the side skins. I’m really hoping that the rear fuselage parts I need are here soon… It’s only been 8 months…
Here’s a few photos of the holes that needed to be drilled out. This is on the right side, but same holes for the left side were done. I had one by the gear channel, one on the very bottom one the firewall and one at the very top of the firewall.
The one by the gear channel (upper right of photo near the black cleco). Photo shows it post drilling.
This is the one on the bottom of the firewall flange (the hole near the red tape). Also noticed an extra hole at the very end that goes into nothing.
And lastly the one on the top of the firewall flange where the top skin meets the side skin. The hole below that is going to be a bit tricky. Below I’ve posted a close up photo from a different angle. The issue with putting a rivet in this hole is that the firewall reinforcing channel is very close to the hole. There’ no way to get a full length rivet in there so I’ll definitely need to cut one down. I’m just hoping that I can get a long enough rivet to hold in there well.
Not the greatest photo. This is the hole I mentioned above, but shot from the front of the firewall. The hole is noticeable (though blurry) in the red circle. The side of the firewall reinforcing channel comes up right behind it. The left side is actually a little worse then this. So I’m thinking cut a rivet a bit shorter and that should work. Otherwise I might need to cut off a bit of the side of the channel piece, which is a little tricky since it’s installed.
Time: 1.5 hrs
Clecoed the sides onto the front/center fuselage. Everything seemed to line up well. I noticed that a few holes need to be drilled out that I must have missed during the test fit. Besides that everything looks good. I won’t be riveting the side for a while just in case I need access to an area that is obstructed by the side skin.
Right side skin loosely clecoed. I won’t be riveting this for a while, but prior to riveting I’ll need to remove the plastic from the areas where the rivets go and add a lot more clecos.
View from above with all the bracing to keep things straight.
Left side is on now. I’m missing the triangular piece that attaches at the wing root area. Hopefully that will be coming in soon.
One more shot above with both sides on. Rib #2 is clecoed on as well just checking for how things line up.
I put together a test circuit of how I’m thinking of doing the start circuit wiring for my Sling. The issue is that I’m not totally sure if I’ll be using the Rotax 915 (which isn’t available yet) or the standard 914. If I use the 914 then the typical master switch (keyed or not) and an aviation start switch could be used in place of all this. It would take a little less panel space and simply things a bit. However, if I use the 915 then a standard aviation switch can’t be used since it will use electronic ignition. The problem comes down to this. If I end up getting the panel cut and installed and then I choose to use the 915 then I need to rework the panel and probably get a new one and cut with different holes and layout. This circuit though would work for both engines so I’m thinking it may be the safest route, plus you get the cool glowing start switch. I also like the idea of the keyed master. If I have the key then I know I turned off the master.
I made a quick panel mock up to hold the switches. I mentioned in the video that the master solenoid is incorrect. I purchased one that needs power supplied to the coil to operate rather then just simply grounding the coil. Not a big deal, but typically you use the later as your master solenoid. The actual circuit can be found on the Resources page. It’s actually very simple, it just looks a lot worse with all the clip leads being used.
Here’s a short video that shows the circuit working. Sorry I suck at making videos and this is actually the first time I’ve every posted anything on line.