Headset Wiring


Time: 0.5 hrs

Just ran some wiring for the headsets. I’ll be using Lemo connectors which supply power to the ANR headsets as well as mic and stereo audio. You can also use regular aviation headsets if you have an adapter. I contemplated this for a while and after reading several posts about installing Lemo connectors as well as standard aviation jacks and how people never used their standard jacks anymore, I thought it would be simplest and sufficient to only install Lemo style plugs.


The Garmin GMA245 has separate mic inputs for 4 people and 3 stereo outputs (pilot, co-pilot, and passengers). I ran (4) 22AWG-2 (M27500-22TG2T14) and (3) 22AWG-3 (M27500-22TG3T14), plus a 20AWG wire for power. I’m thinking this will all terminate on the Lemo side two 16pin Molex 150MX connector. I’ll probably just buy the remade Bose Lemo cables so I’ll just have to pin those and put them into the correct position in the connector. Having it come out on a multi-pin connector will also make removing a bad plug fairly easy by defining it from the connector and removing it.


This is the pre-made Bose Lemo plug that I’ll be using. They’re a little pricey at around $60 each, but even if you build it your self it’s still fairly expensive since the Lemo connectors themselves are around $30 each.



The bottom of the glove box already has (4) 7/16″ holes for the pilot and co-pilot mic and headset. Since each Lemo has both mic and stereo headset audio I’ll just wire the passenger Lemos to here as well. Everything in one convent place and less wire runs. The only issue I need to look at is if the flap actuator will hit the connectors. The connectors are about 1.5″ long and I’m not sure how much clearance there is. Phone jacks would be a bit more shallow so probably not an issue if using those. If all else fails I can make a box that sits into the glove box that gives more space for mounting the jacks.

Pitch Servo

Time: 1.5 hrs

Things done today:

  • Installed Garmin autopilot pitch servo
  • Installed plastic bushings in ends of rudder pedal tubes

Thanks to Jean and Torrance TAF for getting me the rose joint bearings so I could finish up installing the servos.



Here’s what I ended up with on the pitch servo arm. I used the 970-3 washer on the end (head side) as specified in the Garmin manual (Sling manual says an AN4) same as what was done on the roll servo. There’s a thin AN3 washer on the nut side which can’t be seen in the photo. Also it wasn’t entirely clear in the Sling manual, but it looks like the bolt goes into the middle of the three holes on the arm.

Installing the servo in the mounts was a little bit more challenging then I thought. When I initially looked at it I thought there was no way I was getting the bottom bolts on. It turns out it wasn’t that bad and as luck would have it I had purchased some 1/4″ socket extensions a few days ago which came in extremely handy getting the nuts on the back. Also to note the Sling manual called for AN3-3A bolts which seemed really short. I wanted to put a washer on the front so I went for an AN3-5A which seemed to be the perfect length.


The washers were a little bit of a challenge. I was able to put the washer on my index finger and reach around under the mount. If you pull the bolt back so the nut end is flush with the surface then you just slide the washer up and down and push the bolt through until it lines up and then push it through all the way. With the washer in place I getting the nut onto the bolt was the next puzzle.  I crammed some masking tape into the end of the socket to provide a little fill and some stickiness to keep the nut from falling out. Then used the socket extension by hand to thread the nuts onto the bolts. There are adequate holes in the rib to provide access with the extension. I use a long extension on the more aft bottom bolt and a short one on the front bottom bolt. I think the hardest part was getting the torque seal on the bolt. I had to use a chopstick with the seal on it and then carefully feed it through the hole to dab it on the bolt ends.


Some photos of the servo installed. Not sure where that torque seal on the screw head came from. In the above photo you can see the bottom aft bolt (below the screw). The photo was taken looking through a long cut out in the rib which made it possible to reach this bolt.



This is the control horn off the short elevator control tube. This is the arrangement of washers that I ended up with. It seems to line up well with the bearing on the servo (on the far right). I don’t have the push rod so I won’t be sure until I get that and install it.

Since I finished the brake lines on the rudder pedals I was thinking of how to lessen the rubbing of the brake lines that pass through the pedal tubes. TAF uses some plastic tubing that you put on the plastic brake line. I used stainless steel braided lines so the tubing doesn’t fit over it. The pedal tubes are about 5/8″ ID. I was originally thinking of a rubber stopper and drilling out the middle then slitting it to fit over the line and push it into the end of the tube, but looking through some of the stuff I had I found these split ring bushings (below) which after a little modification worked perfect.


I just needed to cut off a little material from both sides of the split area. The modified one is on the left and the original is on the right.


Slipped it around the brake line, pushed it into the end of the tube, and BOOM exactly what I was looking for.


Bulkhead Soundproofing

Time 0.5 hrs

Not too much excitement today. I just installed some 3/8″ soundproofing to the back of the rear bulkhead that mounts to rib 3. I ended up making a sandwich and clecoing it together then lightly cut the soundproofing with a new sharp razor. Then removed the celcos and made cuts all the way through. I then clecoed the bulkhead back onto the rib and installed the soundproofing from the top and worked my way down pulling the paper backing as I went.

Good news… Jordan from Torrance TAF said the parts should be here next week, but they have some kits there so if I want the infamous rear skin RF-SKN-007 sooner I can go get one. Also I want to see if they have a set of the small rose bearings so I can mount those on the pitch servo and control horn. I’m also checking with them on the new better, stronger com1 antenna mount.


Bulkhead sandwich… YUM.


View from the back before cutting.



Short Elevator Tube and Spar Spacers

Time: 1.5 hrs

Done today:

  • Cut and installed 27mm spacers in the spar
  • Verified that Service Bulletin #0010 doesn’t affect me (see previous post)
  • Drilled and reamed holes in ANG-010L and CHL-032L to 9.55mm (3/8″) for canopy light wires
  • Riveted short elevator control tube collars
  • Looked again at the side rear floor close off skins


Cut four 27mm wide (5″ long) spacers to put in the main spar to keep the gap for the wing spar. I guess I should have put these in sooner… before riveting the bottom of the main spar. It was a pretty tight fit… not too bad though. The bottom skin looks OK and this should help keep the correct spacing for the side skins so they don’t warp when inserting the wing. I may drill out a few of the rivets on the bottom just to see if I can loosen it up a little.


Saw that these three (CHL-023L) needed to be drilled out to 9.55 (3/8″) to allow the wiring for the canopy lights to pass through. Once the wiring is brought through then a grommet is put in place to protect and hold the wires. This only needs to be done on the left.


Same 9.55mm hole in ANG-010L


Installed some grommet edging in ANG-010 L & R. I had previously installed some in the other channel parts CHL-038 (2 per side)


This part is driving me crazy. It’s the close off skin for the side rear floor (that part held in with a copper cleco). I see other builders putting it on there side of the bracket which works, but then none of the holes that attach to the seat rail or the holes that have the rivnuts (for attaching to the under seat cover) line up. If I install it like this then all the holes line up great, but it just looks a bit funky. I guess I can cover all this with some carpet and you won’t even see it. To move it to the other side of the bracket means all new holes and probably having to drill out new holes in the rear floor under seat cover (the carpeted part show here) since the holes are only off by about a 1/16″-1/8″. With them being that close you really can’t use the existing holes in any of the parts.


All lines up great if the part is on this side of the bracket. The silver clecos are where M3 screws go, so there are M3 rivnuts installed there. I found that the small clecos work great for temporarily holding things together where M3 rivnuts are installed.



Short elevator control tube collar all installed.


TAF Service Bulletin #0010

Received Service Bulletin #0010 from TAF today for Rib 601 in the tail cone. It basically says if your have a Rib 601 with aluminum of 0.64mm in thickness then you have to do annual inspections of this part and not in your airframe log book. If you have 0.8mm then you’re OK. Fortunately it looks like I have 0.80mm material there so I should be OK, even though the materials list in the kit shows it as 0.64mm. I’ll just have to remember to log in in the airframe log book when I get one.


Held tight on the material. Also measured in a few places and all come out to 0.8mm


Time: 1.75 hrs

Miscellaneous work done today:

  • Installed M3 rivnuts in the parachute box
  • Installed grommet edge on the parachute box
  • Installed straight MPT to -4AN fittings on parking brake lever
  • Installed and torques Garmin roll servo
  • Torqued parking brake level bracket bolts
  • Riveted gear uprights
  • Clecoed top ANG-010 part and spacers to fuselage



Saw in the new manual that grommet edging is installed in these areas, so installed that. Also I tried to clean off that funkiness on the aluminum, but can’t see to get it to come off. I was looking at the way I built the parachute box and I noticed that the side (to the right) in some photos in the new manual is actual inside those flanges from the other sides. The manual shows it as I made it and it appears that the other builders built it the same as me so I don’t know if it really matters. The other thing is that I put my rivets pointing into the box, I saw the factory and a few other builders put them in the other way. It probably doesn’t matter, but I was thinking this is where the parachute bag sits, do the side need to be smooth for the parachute to come out. Will it catch on the rivets… I’m thing not, but….



Put in M3 rivnuts along the edge of this channel piece. This is where the rocket cover goes. I don’t have the cover so I wasn’t sure if I should use M3 or M4 rivnuts. The manual says M4, but M3’s fit. I saw that Craig used M3 and confirmed that the holes in the cover fit 3mm screws so M3 it is.


Yay the roll servo is installed. I used an AN3-6A for the top and an an3-5A for the bottom. The top is a bit thicket because of the bracket. Also I kind of followed the manual for the bearing on the servo arm, but also used the Garmin instructions which used an AN970-3 washer instead of the AN4 washer called for in the build manual.


-4AN fittings installed. I’m not able to use 90 deg fittings here because they will hit each other when installing them. I’ll need to use a 90 deg fitting on the hose end instead. Of course those are a lot more expensive 😦



Got the gear channel uprights riveted and clecoed the top ANG-010 part along with all the spacers.


Rudder Pedal Redo

Time: 3.75 hrs

Redid the bolts and nuts in the rudder pedal assembly. I was originally given hardware to assemble the pedals using AN3 and AN4 undrilled bolts with locking nuts. I remember reading somewhere in some FAA documents that you aren’t supposed to use locking washers on parts that move and where the bolts can’t be torqued to the correct values. This was such a case. I assembled it and was going to send an email off to the factory to clarify, but I noticed in the newest fuselage manual (version 0.15) there is indeed a page that shows drilled bolts, castle nuts, and cotter pins being used. I ordered the necessary hardware from Aircraft Spruce and redid each of the bolts.

There are three bolts used on each pedal. One that holds the toe brake pedal to the arm, one that holds the brake cylinder to the toe brake pedal and lastly one that holds the brake cylinder to the arm. All of them need to move in some capacity so they can’t be torqued to the standard values for the particular sized bolt. The first two bolts and nuts were replaced as specified in the manual. The last one was a bit more tricky. First the AN3-10 bolt they specify is a bit short and caused the pedals to be tight when moved, so I used an AN3-11 which worked well, but was a tad bit long which caused the pedal arm to hit it. I was able to use a thin washer on the head side of the bolt and also changed the way I secured the cotter pin… using the “side wrap into the castle nut” method rather then the “over the top and bottom” method.


This is the bottom bolt. I used an AN3-11 (drilled) and washers as follows: (bolt head), thin, (mount), thin, (cylinder), thin, (mount), thick, (castle nut). Then just tighten so that the cylinder doesn’t move side to side and the nut should be one enough to put the cotter pin in.


These are the top two bolts; one is an AN3 and the other is an AN4. Everything done as specified in the manual. Once again I tightened until I didn’t get any side to side play in the parts. Also all bolts point to the center of the plane so on the left side (pilot side) the bolts point the opposite way.

Brake Hoses

Time: 6.5 hrs

Done today (and yesterday):

  • Made up brake lines
  • Pressure tested brake lines prior to install
  • Installed brake lines to toe brakes and parking break area

TAF includes some plastic brake lines with the toe brake kit. They also supply a clear hose that you use in spots where rubbing may occur, so you slide the plastic brake line into the clear hose in these areas. I really didn’t line the idea of using plastic brake hose, especially outside connecting to the brake calipers on the wheels. I did some research and found this stainless steel braided hose with a PTFE (Teflon) inner hose from Fragola Performance Parts. Also Aeroquip seems to be popular for the RV builders, but for some reason that I can’t remember I chose to use the Fragola PTFE hose. It’s -4AN hose and is the same inner diameter of the brake lines supplied with the kit. It’s fairly light, though not as light as the plastic lines, but along with having to use the clear hose it’s probably close. I also found some really nice Kelvar braided hose from Goodyear (I think), but at $12/foot I can’t really afford that right now. Maybe I can swap it out some day in the future.


Rather then detailing the process of installing the fittings which has been done a few times (better then I can do) on YouTube, I’ll just mention what seems to have work for me. The above photo shows how far I trimmed back the braiding. You don’t want to trim too much because it seems like you need some braiding there for the collar to be able to push on the “olive”. I didn’t get the “spreader” tool that Fragola makes so I used a flat bladed screw drive and some needle nose pliers to separate and loosen the braiding so the “olive” (the brass piece) will slide onto the hose. With that said I will be buying the spreader, they say it works and doing it the way I did takes a long time and resulted in a few cuts from slipping with the screw driver. Also buy the AN wrenches, they’re only like $8. I tried to get by using electrical tape on wrenches and ended up scratch the first couple of fittings I put on. I ended up buying two -4AN wrenches so I could use one on the collar and one on the fitting. Also I found at least with this smaller hose that you don’t need the adapter that goes in the vise to hold the hose and fitting. I bought it because people said you can’t do it without it, but really didn’t use it, the wrenches worked better and there were a few hoses that I could only put the ends on after I ran it through the pedal assembly so using the wrenches was easier then trying to set up a vise near the fitting. It probably makes more sense with the large hoses. Lastly make sure to buy extra “olives”. In pressure testing the first hoses I made up I found that I needed to redo them. The fittings are reusable, but you’re not supposed the reuse the “olives”. To test the hoses I bought the pressure test kit made by Fragola. It’s like $13 and consists of two fittings: and end plug and one that has a bicycle type air filler. I just used my compressor to put air in the line. I only tested them up to about 100 psi. The lines are rated to 3000psi though.

I’ve been using my dremel with a cut off wheel to cut the braided hose and that seems to work pretty well. It leaves an OK cut, but once I get the braiding pulled back a bit I do a clean cut of the inner teflon tube with a sharp razor on a block of wood. It’s important that the teflon tube has a straight clean cut so that it fits into the “olive” tight when you screw the collar down onto the fitting.


Below are some photos of the finished lines. The only place I’m a little concerned is where the hose enters the tube from the rudder assembly right after the right angle fitting (co-pilot side). I originally was planning on using all straight fittings, but there’ just not enough room when the side goes on so the right angle fitting works really well. The think is that it does rub a little and will probably eventually rub through the steel braid. Then again this is where I was supposed to use the clear plastic tubing to pad the other plastic brake line. I’m think that the steel braid will hold up a lot better then the clear plastic. In any case I may try to wrap the lines or fit a grommet in there. I’ll have to see once I see how far the rudder pedals need to travel.


Pilot side pedals. Pretty similar to what is in the manual, but I found that running the line that leaves the bottom of the right cylinder to the parking brake lever was better to turn up towards 11 o’clock rather then down toward 7 o’clock.


A shot behind the pilot side pedals.


This is the co-pilot side. The pedals are fed from the brake reservoir into the top of he cylinders. This I left pretty much the same as the manual. The bottoms are also similar except I used a 90 deg. fitting instead of a straight fitting.


Another shot of the copilot side. I used a “Y” fitting instead of a “T”. You can also see where the hose enters the tubing for the pedal assembly. It rubs a little on the inside, but depending on how far the pedals need to travel it may not be that big of a concern. I may try to fit a thick split grommet in the ends of the tube. I’ll have to see what I can find.


Just a shot of the extra line run over to the parking brake area. I’m not exactly sure where it needs to run so I’ll have to cut and install the fittings later when I know better.


Ailerons fixed and some wiring

Time: 2.5 hrs

Things done today:

  • Messed with the aileron movement in the control sticks
  • Wired the autopilot servo interconnect wiring
  • Crimped pins on the roll server wires

After an hour or so of messing with the front closing bracket, the aileron movement is much better. I found that when I riveted the front closing brackets on the control stick tubes it pushed out the mount a little which pushed the black vesconite bushing tighter against the stops on the control tube. All that was really needed was to loosen the 4 screws that attach the rear mounting bracket to the main spar and then I used a stick and hammer to lightly tap the bracket towards the nose of the plane. this loosened up the movement. It was also helpful to detach the push rod that interconnected the controls sticks so that I could isolate which stick was tight… both actually needed a little loosening.


Wiring for the roll servo done. I’ll need to order the servos this week. Once I get them installed I’ll put the pins in the connector, I don’t want to do that now, just incase something needs to change. The roll servo is a bit more involved then the pitch servo because a lot of the wiring daisy changes over from the roll to the pitch servo. The pitch servo is also the end of the CAN bus so a short jumper is needed and the shield for the CAN bus cable needs to ground to the connector and not loop through like what is don’t here for the roll servo.


Control Sticks

Time: 4.25 hrs

Things done today:

  • Installed the bushings and bearings on the control sticks
  • Installed control sticks
  • Installed cross link aileron control tube
  • Installed elevator to control stick push rods
  • Riveted long control tube stop limit collars
  • Riveted control sticks

Now that the control sticks are in I just need to finish a few more things and I can put the sides on the front fuselage. I need to finish installing the brake lines to the rudder pedals (parts are on order) and I’d like to install the autopilot servos. After those items are done I think I’ll be good to cleco on the sides.


A huge thanks to Jean at Torrance TAF. He found the hardware I needed to finish the control sticks so now I can install them.


Ahhh that doesn’t look right. It should be hitting the bushing not the bolt. I think I know why I had so many problems with the control sticks being tight. I think the control horns were mounted a little too far forward. The control stick came pre-assembled. Well I think I can just offset the bushing with some washers and that will work.


Yeah seems to work better and the bolt is still long enough. Also you can see the push rod that connects between the two control sticks. Make sure you put this in place before you put the control sticks in otherwise there’s no way to slide it into the space between the control sticks.


Installed the stop limit collars on the long elevator control tube. BTW I just noticed that the long elevator control tube needs to be installed the correct way… thank God I installed it right otherwise I would have had to do a lot of rivet removal to flip it around.


Push rods installed between the control sticks and long elevator control tube.


And the control sticks are now permanently installed. The aileron movement did seem to tighten up a bit when I riveted this bracket in. I’ll have to look at this tomorrow. The elevator control is perfect though, nice and smooth and not too much resistance.