Carpeting and mockups

Time: 3 hrs

Things done today:

  • Covered the rear under seat close off panels with carpeting (speaker cover)
  • Made cardboard/wood mockups of various remote avionics
  • Worked on figuring out placement of avionics

I’ll be heading out to San Francisco on Thursday to do the Napa Ragnar 189 mile relay so I won’t be working on the plane much this coming week. I’m hoping to get a few hours in on it before now and then. I want to try to get the first coat of grey paint on the seats before I leave.


Some mockups of Garmin avionics that I made from what I had laying around. They’re a tad bit heavy so tape doesn’t like to hold them in place for too long. I made them the size that includes the connectors so I can fit they somewhat close if needed and not have to worry if the wiring is going to get in the way. It was good to see what some of the avionics is going to be like. I really wanted to mount the Transponder under the rear seat but there’s just not enough room.


Proposed placement of the avionics. There’s not a whole lot of room. I think the GTR20 (Comm 2) and GTX45 (Transponder) will have to mount on rails. I’m thinking I may be able to mount them on the right side one on top of the other, but the way pictured should work as well.


Pretty happy with the way this came out. I used Krylov adhesive which may not be “industrial strength” enough for this. I order some V&S 2028 Industrial Adhesive from which may be better. The Krylov isn;t bad, but I’m sure the kids feet will catch and edge and start sealing the covering off.


Rear Seats

Time: 3hrs

Things done today:

  • Riveted rear seat bottom
  • Riveted rear seat backrest

Some photos of the rear seat.


I noticed that these side channels mount on the outside on the skins. I originally had them on the inside. You can see in the below photo that if they are on the inside they have a bit of a bend in them.


This is how I originally thought the side channels should be installed… on the inside of the top and bottom skins.


I installed some M3 rivnuts for the lock and will use a few of the countersunk M3 screws I had bought for the tail light. There is a reinforcing plate that goes behind the lock that I’m thinking I’ll just paint and put behind the lock when I screw it all together. I think I’m going to cover the back of the seat with the Charcoal carpet (speaker covering) that I used for the inside of the glove box.


A few photos of the finished seat back (back is the first photo, front is the photo above). The bottom is still drying. I’ll be painting these the machine grey later so I used the grey primer on them. I realized after looking at some of Craig’s photos he got from TAF that I put the left and right edge channel on the outside of the skins, it should be on the inside. So now I’m contemplating if I should unrivet them and put them on the inside or just leave it. I kind of like it on the outside and all this gets covered by the seat covers so I may just leave it.

One other note is that I couldn’t finish the seat because TAF gave me the incorrect part for the bottom channel. Hopefully will get the new parts soon so I can finish up the seat.


UPDATE: 10/30

Photo of the riveted and primed bottom section of the rear seat (and my washer and freezer 🙂 )


As I mentioned previously I had been contemplating on redoing the side channels on the rear seat backrests. I installed them on the outside of the skins, but from a few photos I saw they are supposed to be on the inside of the skins. Well after looking at my seat it really seems that the side channel parts are a bit too wide to go on the inside. I think I’m going to leave them they way they are.


The channel parts is in the top part of the photo. It nicely fits over the skins. If that were on the inside the skins would bulge out.


Yet another (bad photo) of the side channel (top of photo). You can see that it’s a bit wider then the channel below where the headrest is.

Rear Seat Belts

Time 2.5 hrs

Things done:

  • Installed rear seat belts
  • Prepped rear seat bottom parts

Because I’m running out of things to do until I get the parts that I’m missing, I decided to install the seat belts for the rear seat. Seemed simple enough and I don’t think they’ll get in the way. Well I wasn’t supply with the 6 penny washer that goes on the head side of the bolt so I purchased a few AN970-4 washers from Aircraft Spruce. The washers worked well, the only issue I see is that the seat belts have a very large hole where the bolt goes through. When I torqued the AN4 bolt to the specified value the washer pulled in a bit. I think I will get a few AN5 washers to fill in the space so the outer washer doesn’t pull in.

Some photos of the seat belts installed, but will have to redo it when I get the AN5 washers.

Front Seats Completed

Time: 3 hrs

Things done today:

  • Finished assembling and riveting the seat adjustment mechanism and riveted to the seat bottom
  • Painted a few firewall parts grey



After looking at the Sling 4 I thought that I should paint a few interior parts grey since you can kind of see them and they aren’t covered (by carpet or leather) in the finishing stage. I should have thought of this before I installed them, but after some creative masking I was able to prime and paint them. I will also paint the rudder pedal base grey, but I need to wait for the new one. I will be using the rudder pedals with the toe brakes rather then the simpler one (that comes with the kit) that doesn’t have the braking cylinders and instead uses a hand brake next to the throttle. I had also considered painting the inside of the firewall. I believe the factory paints it grey. I kind of like the galvanized steel… though maybe I will cover it with sound proofing foam (if heat isn’t an issue).



This is the assembled seat adjustment mechanism. It was a bit tricky to tighten up the bolt holding the bushings and wire. I had previously painted the pull and also had carved out a channel in the lower bushing to blow the wire to sit in the channel rather then just squashing it between the bushing and the pull


A furniture clamp came in handy to compress the pins on the sides and give some slack to the wire. This made it much easier to get the wire and bushing in place and get a socket wrench on both sides to tighten it. Just be sure to center the pull and bushings in the center of the wire so that it slides nice once it’s all assembled


This is the seat adjustment mechanism riveted onto the bottom of the seat.


Seat backrest and seat bottom all done. I probably won’t attach them until I’m ready to install them. The backrest attaches to the bottom with a hinge and maybe 10 rivets. The seat bottom in the photo is upside down to show the adjustment mechanism. Normally the adjustment mechanism would be on the bottom.

I’ll paint all this grey in a few days. My paint process isn’t all that great (a table outside in the back yard). It’s been fine for priming and for painting small parts, but maybe I need to step it up a bit for painting these larger pieces. The good thing is that most of the seat gets covered by the seat covers so if it gets some dust or doesn’t come out perfect it probably won’t be seen. I’ve been using an self-etching primer (just to try it out) on the parts I’m going to paint so that’s why the primer isn’t green like the other parts. The grey is just a rattle can machine grey from HD.

Sling Flying

A few weeks ago I got checked out in the Sling 2 at The Sling Flying Club in Torrance (KTOA). Today I took one of their Sling 2’s out for an hour or so. They also have a Sling 4 (not rentable though) so I took a few photos of the interior of the 4 after my flight. Hopefully the photos will help understand how some things are put together and what to paint or cover, etc.


My ride for a trip out to the practice area and a Touch and Go at Long Beach (KLGB). A lot of fun to fly. Will hopefully be able to get regular hours in on the Sling 2 while I build the 4.


Some interior photos of the Sling 4. If anyone’s building a 4 or 2 and need photos please let me know. The guys at TAF in Torrance are great and I can go in any time and take pictures.



Rear Seat

Time: 3.5 hrs

Things done today:

  • Riveted side reinforcing channels for front backrests and paint them grey
  • Looked at how to install the seat adjustment lever in the mechanism
  • Test fit rear seta bottom and backrest
  • Drilled out various missing parts in rear seat bottom and back rest skins

Well I thought this would be easy since the front seats fit together so well. I had the kids help me with the test fit… they are now experts at clecoing and finding parts. I’ll try to detail some of the issues I encountered while doing the test fit.



First thing was when test fitting the rear backrest. The bottom channel (ST-CHL-007) was way too long to fit and the holes didn’t line up at all, but the part number was correct… Hmmm, put that aside for the moment. The rest of the fitting went well. There is a little ambiguity in the manual (like that’s something new), but eventually got it worked out. The front skin goes on the inside of the side channels (ST-CHL-012-L&R) and also the Seat Channel 11 (ST-CHL-011). It’s clear to see in one picture, but in the other it looks like the skin just mounts right on top of them.


The next thing was that there were no holes drilled in the back skin for the Latch Reinforcing Plate (ST-PLT-008 and ST-PLT-009)so those needed to be drilled out.


During the test fit for the bottom part of the seat I noticed ST-CHL-006 looked familiar…… Yup it’s the same as that ST-CHL-007 part that didn’t fit on the backrest. Seems they gave me two of the same part, one labeled ST-CHL-006 and the other labeled ST-CHL-007. So now the question is do I hack the part to fit in the backrest (cut it to the correct length and drill new holes) or do I wait 2 months for the correct part?


And lastly After fitting all the parts for the bottom seat section it was noticed that none of the holes for the Seat Plates (ST-PLT-002) where drilled so those needed to be marked and drilled. There was also a hole missing in the short channel parts.